It’s autumn and a typical Friday night at Naufsika’s Taverna in Kefalohori, a bustling village beneath the towering Grammos mountains in northwestern Greece. Tonight seven or eight tables are full of diners; some locals, many family members
“Passport please,” demands a policeman as he approaches my Jeep. We're at a roadside pullover near Kefalohori, Greece just a stone's throw over the Grammos mountains from Albania. In these parts, I can't remember a time I have NOT been asked to show my papers or open the trunk of my car.
Permet is a bustling town in southeastern Albania bookended between the Vjosa River and the towering Dhembel Mountains. On a Friday or Saturday night—actually any summer night—the shops are open
The rain came down in torrents all night and by morning Mill Run, the small river in front of my cabin, swells its banks full of muddy water, sticks and jetsam. The day opens slowly with coffee, a wander along the creek for me and my dog, Simba,
Downtown Mill Creek offers a diner/gas station, the ubiquitous Family Dollar Store, an IGA Grocery, Liggett Hardware, the Post Office, a bank and three churches with billboards out front. On the day I arrive into town, one church broadcasts a
I am home now back on the island of Skopelos, my base for five months a year. Always, it is good to leave the hotels behind, but alas, the pleasures and freedom of the road—new and old places visited, new friends—too quickly recedes.Thinking back…I
9/15/19On my last visit to Aliveri, September 2019, I stop by Konstandina and Mitsos’s house. They meet me at the gate with bad news: Mitsos has just been arrested for driving without a diploma, a license. “Ah bad, bad news,” he tells me. He plies
Was my three-day photo trip to Aliveri, the mainland Roma settlement, a success? It cost way more than I would have liked and the rental car, a VW Polo that trawled dangerously low like a race car on the Aliveri dirt roads, caused no end of worry