Traveling to Albania, I make a stop half way in Metsovo, a small village pressed into the mountain side on the eastern edge of the Pindos Range of Greece. I arrive there red as a strawberry and sweating profusely. My small Suzuki Jeep is a wondrous beast full of low gear power but with no AC she offers no comfort on summer’s hot highways.
No matter now, as cool winds bath Metsovo in autumnal air even in early July. The next morning leaving the high mountain air, once again the heat begins to build. Crossing the border at Konitsa, Greece, hot winds enveloped the car.
Just over the Albanian border, I stop for a swim at the beautiful Azooz River whose frigid waters feel heavenly today. I plunge in naked but make it quick knowing that a raft overflowing with happy outdoorsmen could suddenly appear around the bend. Rafting is advertised everywhere along the Azooz and the billboards of merry rafters look strangely out of context against the skyline of Permet, a mix of abandoned Communist era factories, ancient stone houses, and Soviet style apartment buildings.
I have booked a room in a guest house somewhere in Permet. I do not have an Albanian sim card, so I try my US Tmobile just to quickly connect to Booking.com. A primitive map shows approximately the hotel’s location. I arrive at an old stone house that resembles the picture online but no sign confirms it is a guest house. In fact, there’s no sign at all. Then a middle-aged woman appears and confirms in adequate English that this is indeed the place. She drags in my bag and directs me to a tidy room on the second floor humming with AC. Minutes later she arrives with a tray full of refreshments: lemon water, watermelon slices, fresh fruit. She says I may call her “Looli.”
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The next day is another hot day. But look around you. What is everyone doing? Sitting in cafes sipping cool drinks or on park benches enjoying the shade, a breeze, a conversation.
But wait! Looking down at the bridge below Permet, I see a dirt path and 4 peoples descending. They are carrying towels. Access to the cool river right here in town? I am on my way.